Dior Summer 2023 Men’s Fashion Show review
How is your garden growing?
By Markus Wittmer
Kim Jones brings the couture spirit of Christian Dior to the great outdoors for summer 2023, exploring both interpretations of nature through art and poetry and the practical demands of the natural world on its own terms.
Breaking the new rule that Jones’ spring and fall capsule collections would explore his penchant for collaboration, and summer and winter would mark full, Jones-only collections, Summer 2023 takes inspiration from the work and life of Duncan Grant (but don’t work together!). , a British Post-Impressionist painter and member of the Bloomsbury Group who shares the same birthday as Christian Dior. Both men were famous for their love of gardens and gardening, the collection’s signature theme, recreated in Etienne Russo’s sets for the Villa Eugénie, Monsieur Dior’s Villa Granville, and Grant and Vanessa Bell’s Charleston Farmhouse, a sort of headquarters and retreat. is easily recognizable for the Bloomsbury group.
This theme allows Jones to explore the gorp-core trend and find smart ways to disrupt the practicality and style of outdoor gear through the lens of Christian Dior’s couturier sensibility. Amid Jones’ signature blend of tailored elegance and elevated streetwear, brilliant details proliferate from garden and outdoor gear – zips and straps, technical fabrics, hidden compartments – as well as pieces like trekking backpacks, garden hats, fleeces and hiking boots.
Direct references to Grant’s paintings are kept to a relative minimum and only appear on a few sweaters. But the ephemeral spirit and floral, pastel color scheme of both his artwork and garden blossoms throughout the collection in gossamer paneling in sheers and lace, petal-like knits, and a blooming palette of moss green, evening sky blue, soft pink, and warm sand.
Excitingly, Jones also got more experimental with structure than we’ve seen him do in the past, moving almost into deconstructive territory with details like redundant sleeves, asymmetry, and strapless, bib-like bodices.
Poetic and practical at the same time, the collection feels like a skillful synthesis of the spirit of an Impressionist landscape painting and what it actually feels like to live in touch with the land. We could easily have felt that the collection continued the sense of collaboration fatigue and whiplash, but the wholeness and grace with which the inspiration was incorporated avoided that potential pitfall and made for a cohesive collection that is in its homage to artistry and adventure felt distinctly Dior.